West Highland Way Walks

The birds and the bees

2009-05-18T23:29:00.001-07:00

The West Highland Way 2008

Some of the plants and wee beasties seen along the way, and I can’t tell if I’m right on all of them or even some of them!

Day One:

A gander staying cool near Gartness

An umbrella plant? by the old railway track

Some sort of Wort? by the old railway track

Don’t know? by the old railway track

An easy one – Chaffinch near Drymen

Day Two:

Another don’t know?

A Tortoiseshell with it’s tongue out!

Some triffid like ferns close to Balmaha

Lovely wild primrose

Day Three:

Alfred Hitchcock – The Birds – waiting for victims of the loch path

A close pair of Barnacle Geese

I’ll name that bulb in one!

A stunning growth of moss next to the path near Ptarmigan Lodge

Wild Garlic – doesn’t smell so good

Errm – is it a Bluebell

A lovely Oak on the Loch Lomond shore

Bertie Beetle on his holidays

Wild primroses

A wild goat – a great hairy beast – the goat not me

A delicate lavender coloured Viola

Day Four:

Future frogs if it rains soon

I don’t fancy their chances of survival

The first of many wee ones

Don’t know I’ll look it up

Oxalis??

The local creche

Mint sauce mmnn

Not big enough yet

Marsh Marigolds? Near Tyndrum

Tired looking gorse near Tyndrum

Day Five:

A two headed horsey past Tyndrum

Highland cattle having a nosh at the Auch Estate

Why did the hen cross the military road?

More wee beasties of the hairy variety

Nice foliage of a mountain ash

A Swallow near Inveroran

A pink Orchid? Type??

A white one

Don’t know I’ll look it up

Bog something or other?

Another Viola

A wild Deer

Wild no more – probably never have been

Day six:

A hairy beast

Iceland Poppy in woods near Kinlochleven

Armeria on the shores of Loch Leven

A young buck near Glen Finnan

Day Seven:

Buttercups

An Azalea above Kinlochleven

A Rhododendron on the other side of the path

Some nice Gneiss

Wild Sage ??

Finally a Cuckoo

This was as close as I could get…hint…his head is on the left

Don’t know!

Some lowly Bryophytes curling up their toes in the dry

A yellow wagtail near to Fort William

Another Orchid?

Day 9:

A going home shot on Loch Lomond at Tarbet

Another Barnacle Goose

Another two Barnacle Geese

West Highland Way - Accommodation

2009-05-18T23:24:00.000-07:00

The KirkHouse Inn, Strathblane:

A bit of a bargain price of £99 DBB for two people. Call for a good deal. There is a more upmarket hotel up the road, but very expensive for one night. The room was comfortable – ask for a premier room, it was very spacious. The food was ok, but they didn’t have the Car grilled chicken that was on the menu. There was internet and mobile phone reception was limited due to the proximity of the Campsie Fells.

Verdict: Would stay again.

Drymen:

We only passed through here, but it has a nice village green setting. The Winnock Hotel is part of Best Western and overlooks the village green. There are Bars & B&B nearby. Browns restaurant looks smart enough and the local Spar shop serves all the basics required including your lunch for the next day.

Verdict: It looks a pleasant enough place.

The Rowardennan Hotel:

We stayed in the Ben Lomond suite, that had a view of Ben Lomond unsurprisingly. The room was comfortable, relaxing and quiet. The room had some good and some basic amenities. The restaurant served the same menu as the bar – i.e pub grub. It was adequate and the good friendly service made the difference. We were well attended by Robbie the waiter. It is a great locality, and has a seating area to sit out in the sun – usually full of walkers. The hotel is at the end of a road so you have to make an effort to get there or catch the ferry. One thing to note is that it is the only place to eat, so the bar can get very busy at times with people from the YHA. I had a great sandwich in the packed lunch – coronation chicken. Breakfast was good.

Verdict: Would stay again

Inveroran :

The end of day 3 walk at Beinglas. The camping complex at Beinglas had a good atmosphere, very friendly, & a good bar & shop – open until 8pm. It has camping and some wigwams – I imagine they could be baking hot in summer. The only alternative without transport is the s&^%hole that is the Drovers Inn. The place is an absolute dump, and how it gets by HSE rules is beyond me. Even the fabric of the building is falling apart. One look inside the bar and a chat with a few people was all I needed. I would rather sleep on a park bench, under a copy of The Times!

Verdict: Unless you have no choice, avoid the Drovers like the plague.

Ardlui:

Luckily for me I had transport and we stayed at The Ardlui Hotel. The food was ok , and it had a nice enough bar and atmosphere. The room was a little old fashioned, but again was comfortable enough. The hot water took an age to come through, and it must have been the hydro scheme nicked all the pressure. The packed lunch was basic but OK.

Verdict: worth the price of a taxi if you can find one.

Tyndrum

A bit of an oddity. It stretches out along the main road and has a big old hotel, with lots of B&B’s by river. There are a couple of smaller hotels adjacent to the busy road through the village. It is a bit of a staging post for coaches of tourists, and has the usual tourist attractions, and a few shops to stock up with snacks. The Tyndrum Lodge Hotel looked good and had a carvery to eat at. We had a drink sat outside on the sundeck.

Verdict: There should be somewhere to suit all.

Bridge of Orchy

Some 7 miles on from Tyndrum is the Bridge of Orchy hotel. This was probably the most recently updated hotel, with a huge lounge & was very restful. It had an Internet connection and some very comfortable settees to fall into. The food was good, as was the service, and the full restaurant said it all. There was camping nearby. The room was excellent and very comfortable. One extra point from me was that it helped split up the long mileage of the next day, by walking from Tyndrum back to the hotel for breakfast. It would be worth trying to get a lift back. Breakfast was excellent. I missed out on a packed lunch and just nibbled me nuts.

Verdict: Nearly the best hotel of the trip.

Kingshouse

No choice here, it’s the Kingshouse or nothing. So book early, otherwise it’s a taxi ride to Glencoe. The Inveroran Hotel looks ok but remote, and you would have to alter the usual itinery. The Kingshouse is like a backpackers hotel – basic but adequate. It serves good food, and the service was excellent, as was the breakfast. It has a great atmosphere, and if you didn’t watch it you could end up with one hell of a night. The packed lunch offered was either non veg or veg – no choice, so I chose to say no thanks. The rooms were a very dated and basic but adequate for the WHW walkers. The views from room 9 were second to none. Breakfast was good with great service. It has an internet computer available.

Verdict: I would stay here even if there was an alternative

Kinlochleven

A choice of two or three hotels and some dodgy looking B&B’s – but they must be ok to survive. We stayed at the MacDonald Hotel which is very basic. It was struggling for staff & the staff they had tried their best. The food was ok. We had a room over the kitchen & it was too hot – so avoid room 1. Outside the hotel had wendy houses (sheds from B&Q) for 2 sets of bunk beds! They were cheap but not very cheerful. Breakfast was only adequate. The plus point is that it is next to the WHW path. The internet connection was down. But the hotel has a new owner so maybe things will improve. I got a sandwich from the local Co-op before setting off again.

Verdict: I would look elsewhere in the town, or taxi to Glencoe.

Fort William

The best stay of the trip. The Lime Tree is recently renovated and features many artworks and an ever changing exhibition. We had a quiet room at the back of the hotel. It was nicely kitted out, even though the rooms were quite narrow. The internet connection was down when we stayed but otherwise it should be ok. The Lime Tree has a couple of lounges to sit in, and was very restful. The Gallery has paintings for sale if anything takes your fancy, and all the staff were very attentive. The restaurant is excellent and the chef cooks in front of you, so you can see he doesn’t do anything nasty in the gravy! It has been voted the second best restaurant in Scotland, and has a good restaurant, and some interesting beers to sample. The owner makes a real effort and he makes the difference. Fort William has plenty of shops to stock up on stodge!

Verdict: Well worth the money

Watch out Michael Winner and Giles Corren – we walkers are on the march!!

West Highland Way - Day 8

2009-05-18T23:03:00.000-07:00

Day Eight: 19th May 2008.
Weather: Sunshine, then overcast with sprinkling of snow on top
Auchinlee to Ben Nevis: 12 ½ miles (12.8 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 26205
Acc Steps: 263492

After a very good evening meal and celebration at the Lime Tree Hotel in Fort William, I was ready for the final challenge that was Ben Nevis.

The view of Ben Nevis from Loch Eil

Turn left where it says Ben Nevis!

The sun was shining and I started off from the Nevis Bar at Achintee Farm. The gradient from here is a lot easier than the short haul up from the YHA, and why would you waste effort so early on in the walk. I had checked out the weather forecast and it was set fair for the day, which is roughly how it stayed, apart from some low cloud on the summit. It would be easy to be lulled into thinking that all I would need is some refreshment to get up to the top and back. How wrong could you be? I packed an extra jumper and had my woolly hat and gloves ready, and I was glad to use them at the top, especially in the small snow shower!

Looking to the head of the valley and the Mamores

The WHW path to Fort William can be seen on the opposite side

Getting steeper as I passed a whole string of walkers

The tourist path starts off its gentle ascent up a well trodden path – you can’t miss it – there is a sign pointing to Ben Nevis! The short steeper sections are laid with a series of steps, which make the going less of a strain. It is a long grind to the top but well worth it. The path climbs steadily to the south west under the face of Meall an t-Suidhe, crossing side streams by ford and bridges (aluminium), before turning to the north west and becoming steeper. I took time to stop and enjoy the views looking down on the hostel in the valley below and taking in the Mamores across the valley – but I didn’t spend too long as I would be looking at the same aspect on the way down later on. I passed by many people on the way up today, not because I was suddenly super fit, but because my legs were now well tuned in to gradients and they were on automatic climb mode. I tend to struggle more downhill than up due to the pressure on the old knees, but I’m glad to say they stood up well to the task. My hat took up most of the sweat off my brow (and sweat you will – unless there is something wrong with you, or its 10deg below) and I had to change it later on for the woolly version to stop the cold. The path up the Red Burn Gully – probably named after the reddish hue of the granite, is a little steeper than before, but again has plenty of stony steps to make progress onwards and upwards. The route zigzags back on itself towards the top of the gully to attain an easier gradient past the halfway lake which is about halfway up height-wise at 610m – the real name is Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe – halfway lake to his friends! I found my pace quickening on the easy gradients and knew I would make the top in a reasonable time, although I hadn’t given myself a target to aim at. I was walking for the fun of it, not breaking any personnel records, even though I would be the tallest man in Britain for a fleeting moment at the top. I reached a small stone wall at the end of the long leg up past the halfway lake, and the path turned back on itself in a zigzag. The climb from here was roughly the same gradient all the way to the summit, zigzagging upwards on a rocky, and boulder strewn path. Some of the path is very rough, but I suppose it is subject to a lot of wear and tear over the year – I tried not to knock off any loose stone on the way up or down.

Some rough steps ahead

The halfway lake from way past halfway

Loch Eil in the distance, the YHA far below

There wasn’t much flora or fauna to look at on the mountain – too many people in the morning rush. I spent a lot of time looking at my feet today, picking my way along. The geology didn’t vary too much and there wasn’t much to excite me geologically. I gently nibbled on my nuts as I got higher – a good source of energy along with the wrinkled sultanas. One thing to note that in busy times you will be hard pushed to find any privacy to have a wee! So hold on tight or go before you set off – you have been warned!

The Mamores and beyond

Getting ever higher

Fort William comes into view behind me auld aunty Swede – Meall an t-Suidhe

The path now crossing the scree slopes

As I reached the grey scree slopes higher up, I got the feeling I was getting ever closer. But as with all good climbs the false summits are there to taunt you. The first snow patches appeared around 1000m and became thicker patches the higher I got. A series of stone cones marked the path towards the summit, followed by a wide expanse of snow to walk, slip, and slide up. Once I had passed the snow I was level with the adjacent peak of Carn Dearg – a mere 1214m – pfffd, and lots of rubble across from Ben Nevis. Then the snow cornice at the summit came into view and I was nearly there.

I think I’m getting closer, but……

…there was still a way to go yet

Up across this patch of snow

tiny Carn Dearg

Nearly, nearly there

People got fed up zigzagging and went straight for the top

What a great feeling and in my eyes the true end of the WHW, stood on the summit trig point shouting ‘I’m bigger than you are’. You try not to grin when you’re up here, that is nigh on impossible. The old observatory was nestled and surrounded by a blanket of snow about 1m thick. The snow cover made everything neat and tidy and I’m not sure if it would look good naked later in the year? I spent sometime looking at a couple of intrepid souls climbing up a ridge on the wrong side of Ben Nevis and wondered if I could/would like to do that. On second thoughts I like walking, not rock climbing. I spent about 30 minutes wandering around the summit as the visibility was good. If it was misty it would be easy to get disorientated up here as the summit covers a large area, and there are some seriously dangerous drops on the eastern side. So beware, and carry a compass and map – unless it’s the middle of summer with not a cloud in sight.

I didn’t go too close to the edge – it’s a long way down

The Mamores lit up below the cloud base

The old summit observatory

I’m the king of the castle….

This shows the thickness of the snow layer

Can you spot the climbers? Yes they are completely bonkers

The very edge, and very airy

A close up of The Mamores

Now for the long walk down, Loch Eil in the distance

The stream down into Red Burn Gully

The long traverse path from the halfway lake – left to right

The Nevis Bar comes into view

Then all of a sudden it was time to go and end my journey. The path down was the same as the one coming up; except for me it was harder on the knees. It took me 2hrs 30mins to the top, I spent 30mins on the summit plateau, and then took 2hrs down – a grand total of not very long in my eyes. Not bad going for an old fart, and I finished the walk with a celebratory pint in the Nevis Bar – did I deserve it? Your damn right I did! As I sit here now typing the last page of the last day, I can now look forward to my next long walk. You know what I think of walking by now – it’s absolutely brilliant.

Aaaaaaaagggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhh

And finally if you thought golf was boring…

Remember to shout..’FORE’…but not up here, you may start an avalanche!

My next shot was rubbish!!

…did he really think I had hit a golf ball up here?

West Highland Way - Day 7

2009-05-18T23:02:00.000-07:00

Day Seven: 18th May 2008.
Weather: Overcast with sunny spells, dry all day again!
Kinlochleven to Fort William: 14 1/2 miles (15.8 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 33291
Acc Steps: 237287

The last day of the WHW dawned with bright sunshine with fair weather clouds scooting by. That always gives the potential for some good pictures, and although the walk was drawing to a close, I was still looking forward to a right good stomp up through the glens. I had a quick look at the guide book and realised that the first part of today was all uphill out of Kinlochleven, quite steeply in parts. But the paths were through lightly wooded slopes and I was in and out of dappled sunlight. The views up Loch Leven towards the Pap of Glencoe and beyond were delicious, so much so that I had to watch my step once or twice or I’d be headed back to where I started from.

Beinn na Caillich from the steep path out of Kinlochleven

The Pap of Glencoe

Lovely dappled sunlight illuminates the way ahead

Looking down to Kinlochleven

I passed over several fords and a road, when finally the gradient levels off. A runner passed by me looking like a ‘swan vesta’ matchstick – maybe his mum dressed him as well! I was walking at a slower pace today as the route was well away from any intrusive noise, and tends to becalm the walker into a peaceful somnambulant trance – i.e. it was very quiet, sunny and I was feeling great. I could still see the odd remnant of Military road, usually at the edge of the track – look for the black moss (dead and compacted).

The Pap and Sgorr Bhan behind, Loch Leven below

Fantastic views all around

One of many side streams forded by boulders

The way winding up the valley below Stob Coire na h-Eirghe

A picturesque bridge below Stob Ban – glowing in the sunlight

The way gradually climbed towards the head of the valley below Stob Ban – part of the Mamores, and one I recognised from the top of Big Ben. A small white stoned cairn marked the top and now I could look forward and back to enjoy the route taken. It was almost all gently downhill to Fort William from here with one or two small climbs. The old abandoned croft of Tigh-na-sleubhaich comes into view and I had a quick look around. The old timbers and lintels were all burnt, and the room spaces small, and no doubt shared with the livestock when the weather became too harsh. A remnant of the highland clearances? Shame on the landowners, for who would want to leave such a splendid setting – someone who scraped a living from hill farming I suspect? Nothing much has changed over the years has it?

The abandoned croft buildings of Tigh-na-sleubhaich

Not much room for a big family

Stob Ban high above the valley

Looking back up the valley to the old farmstead

Further along the valley was another similar sized dwelling, a good spot for a rest and a bite to eat. Ahead of me appeared the hillside of Doire Ban, and for a moment I puzzled where the river flowed. But one look down at the flow of water showed that it would have to go west and then turn the corner to go north – they do flow downhill you know. The way turned north towards Fort William, and on the trail guide several wooded areas were on route. Luckily for me all the big butch lumberjacks had been here recently and felled a lot of the offending plantation and opened the views ahead and around. It leaves the hillsides a bit messy, but at least some wildlife comes back, and birdsong could be heard from the small copses remaining.

The river flows around the corner, heading north to the sea

Looking north – Fort William just over the hills ahead

Anticipation building – Ben Nevis soon

Looking back to Lochan Lunn Da-Bhra

They had left some spindly stumps poking up above the surrounds, and after listening to a cuckoo for a while, I finally spotted him and took a picture – see the flora and fauna section. Further along the path I passed by a sign that details the fights between the Campbells and MacDonalds at the battle of Inverlochy. There is a cairn close by that says if you’re a Campbell sympathiser then you add a stone, but if you are allied to the MacDonalds you take one away. Not wanting to offend, I put one on then took it off again – who says we don’t play fair? The WHW splits away from the old military road and I took a few minutes rest on a handily placed bench overlooking the Lochan Lunn Da-Bhra. A gentle ascent up the slopes led to my first views of Ben Nevis.

Ooh hello big boy

After this I passed over a couple of massive, wobbly wooden stiles on my way into the plantation woods and the views became closed in and slightly oppressive. The way winds up and down small valleys, quite steeply at times. Eventually I came out onto the wide forestry ride and the end of the way was approaching as I had good views of Glen Nevis, Ben Nevis and Aonach Beag behind me. The usual small streams were crossed on the way, with the only vegetation under the plantation edge being mosses and bryophytes. It had been so dry that even some of these were curling up their toes! The paths work their way down to the valley floor and reach the road to Fort William. The only jarring note is that the way follows the road for just over a mile to the end of the trail. A better option would be to cross the river and follow the far bank into the end. But whichever way I chose the end was nigh and as I rambled into Fort William, the signpost marking the last point of the WHW appeared – they even cut the grass especially for me. I met a couple who told me they didn’t want it to ever end, they probably meant ‘we don’t want to go back to work’. How did I feel? – that’s an easy one – walking ….its BRILLIANT.

Getting closer and looking bigger

The gentle drop down into Fort William down Glen Nevis

Ben Nevis doesn’t look so bad from here

Approaching the Nevis roundabout

The end and we all walked happily ever after!!

West Highland Way - Day 6

2009-05-18T23:01:00.000-07:00

Day Six: 17th May 2008.
Weather: Overcast all morning for the walk, then sunshine pm
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven: 9 miles (9.9 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 21046
Acc Steps: 203996

The first thing I saw out of the window today was a big, fat, hairy cow – no not the landlady, some highland cattle scratching on a box. They obviously chased the deer away – the deer not the landlady. I couldn’t miss the giant butt of Buachaille Etive Mor, which was really the first big thing of the day.

Buachaille Etive Mor – welcome to Glencoe

There was low mist clinging to the hill tops, which meant disappointment to me as I wanted to traverse the Aonoch Eagach ridge, when I had walked up the Devil’s Staircase. I will have to come back to do that one as an individual walk. An easy gradient followed the contours of the hill on the north side of Glencoe, as the route took me around to the Devil’s Staircase. The road comes very close as the path turns up the hill, and the car parks were full with Munro baggers for the weekend. All looked happy, and why not walking never hurt anyone, unless you fall off the high bits etc. The view up Glencoe was tremendous despite the weather, and some good glacial features could be seen – hanging valleys above the U-shaped valley itself. I passed a man and his girlfriend early on, who was either very intoxicated last night or was dressed by his mum – he was wearing light blue hat, red and white jacket, red rucksack with bright yellow rain cover, khaki shorts over black and white striped tights and to complete the ensemble a pair of Chelsea boots! Take a close look at the picture; I thought his girlfriend may have tried to run off! He wouldn’t get lost dressed like that and he was easy to spot from a long way off.

Hmmm?

Glencoe

A lot of the side streams coming down off the hills are forded with boulder beds, some fancier than others on different sections of the walk, which vary from buttressed bridges, simple stone bridges, or a pile of stones. I didn’t spot much wildlife today apart from the lesser spotted sweet wrapper, which unfortunately is only too common on the WHW along with his cousin the discarded tissue – what is wrong with these people? The Devils Staircase was presumably named by the soldiers who used to lug equipment up the steep slope. It actually doesn’t live up to its reputation. Granted it is steep at first, but then turns along a series of zigzags which lessen the gradient and speed you to the top. I made sure to stop now and again to get a good retrospective of the views behind down Glencoe and its surrounds.

A perfect U-shaped valley – Lairig Gartain

Admiring the views from near the top of the Devil’s Staircase

The small cairn marks the col at the top of the Devil’s Staircase

Once at the top of the staircase the views to the north should have been spectacular, but unfortunately they were a bit limited, with all the big boys’ heads in the clouds. At this point I abandoned any idea of going up Aonoch Eagach, as the wind was cold and I didn’t feel properly equipped and I regretted for a moment not being better prepared. But I reminded myself that Big Ben was waiting for me on Monday, and that I was enjoying myself anyway. The route wound down the hillside with a few small ascents over a lumpy path – the military road not as well maintained over the hillside, which had more than a few outcrops of glacially smoothed rock.

Rough moorland all around

Looking up to Sron Gharbh

Kinlochleven comes into view – one of the wettest places in the UK

Looking along the valley to the Blackrock Reservoir

I think that’s a water metering building?

Kinlochleven came into view from high up the ridge, and as the Alcan water works are approached the path turns onto a well maintained track. The water pipes down into the old aluminium plant at Kinlochleven are impressive, and they would make a fantastic water slide should they ever become defunct! These discharge into the River Leven with a great rush, and the old works are now a fancy climbing centre. After crossing over the river, the walk into Kinlochleven is pleasant enough with the residents obviously taking pride in the appearance of their gardens. I was bombarded with signs on the route into Kinlochleven, all vying for my trade, both hotels and B&B’s. Just as I finished the day’s walk, the sun came out - but I didn’t care as I had the afternoon off and went up to Fort William, and then onto Glenfinnan for a look around. On the way back Big Ben Nevis was staring at me, a challenge for Monday, and I only hope the weather holds. Today’s leg was very short – the route not me, or I’d be walking around in circles – so if you’re up this way, prepare for something in the afternoon or you may get a little fidgety. There wasn’t much flora or fauna seen today either, or maybe I didn’t look closely enough? A bit of a frustrating day as the best views were hidden away.

Am Bodach high above me – I should have been up there

One of several deep cut streams running off Garbh Bheinn

The water pipes coming downhill to Kinlochleven

There were a few leaks from some of the joints – a bit of the old works below

The River Leven flows into Kinlochleven

A pleasant riverside walk around to the hotel

The Pap of Glencoe above Loch Leven

Sgorr nam Fianaidh towers above Glencoe village

This view made up for the dull morning

Glencoe below the Pap – peaceful in the afternoon sun

Looking at Aonoch Eagach and the pinnacles – I’ll be back!

West Highland Way - Day 5

2009-05-18T23:00:00.000-07:00

Day Five: 16th May 2008.
Weather: Sunshine early morning, then light showers in the afternoon
Tyndrum to Kingshouse: 18.5 miles (19.8 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 41765
Acc Steps: 182950

We stayed overnight in the Bridge of Orchy a very comfortable hotel, and I decided to get up early and walk back for breakfast. A bleary eyed member of staff let us out at 06:15 and I had a lift back to Tyndrum. Disaster struck early on as my cameras batteries ran out of juice, and I hadn’t packed any spares. Luckily for me the man in the paper shop at Brodies kindly let me buy 4, even though he wasn’t open – a big phew with profuse thanks. The weather was crisp and I strode out determined to be back for breakfast before the time deadline of 9:30. It was about 7 miles back to the Bridge of Orchy, and I made it easily in time (2hrs). That split the day up, and made the 18.5 mile journey less of a burden. The early morning light is always a delight to be walking in, and is almost sleepy in its lightness. It always gives a fine light for photos, so if you have a favourite view that you ever want to capture – find out which way it is facing – east you catch it in the morning and west is vice versa. Beinn Odhat & Beinn Dorain (1076m) dominated the views and drew the eye all morning and a good part of the afternoon, such was their presence.

Beinn Odhar is the first big thing of the day

The road, the railway and the way – close together here

Beinn Dorain towers above the Auch estate

The cloud cover around the peaks made them look volcanic as did their form. The slopes down to the valley were hugely steep, so all the streams had no option but to flow directly downhill, giving the hillside a distinctive striated look. Early on it was cool in the shade, with the sun coming out of the side valley of Gleann Ach illuminating the Auch estate. Once in the sunshine I gently warmed and the way ahead was easy going on the old military roads.

The streams have nowhere to wander – they flow straight down the hillside

Walking around the edge of the Auch estate

The striated butt of Beinn Odhar

The way stayed on these surfaces all day long, some better preserved than others. The finer stones were easier to walk on. A lot of the old military road had coarser stone with the gravel topping washed or eroded away. You can see the old surface - it is black and mossy, and this old surface can be seen for long sections of the military road even where the path is heavily eroded. The Caledonian Sleeper train passed by at 08:10, with the driver shhshing me not to wake the passenger. I’m sure they would have heard me shouting ‘wake up’!

The Caledonian sleeper tiptoes past me

Looking back towards Tyndrum

The Bridge of Orchy – built to last

I had a lovely break in The Bridge of Orchy hotel, and then strode out again into the morning sun over the fine bridge. The military road gradually ascended through a plantation and wound its way up the hill, finally opening a new vista to the north over Loch Tula and the wilderness of Rannoch Moor beyond – not a place to get lost on. There were still some remnants of snow on the hilltops, with a great 360deg panorama, which unfortunately I didn’t shoot in the correct mode on my new camera – another Homer Simpson moment.

The river flows into Loch Tulla from here

The hotel at Inveroran – a superb setting

Loch Tulla and the way continues up the other side

I dropped down and passed the Inveronan Hotel, it looked ok and fresh but no customers. The road took me around to an estate gate, the drove route to Glencoe, and continued along the military road past Loch Tulla. I gained height across the lonely moor, the track undulating gently onwards and upwards across the boggy landscape – it was dry enough for me though, and a ditch at the side of the track keeps most of the water away. Finally after hearing 5 days of Cuckoos I saw one fly out of a solitary tree chased by a finch or a wren – definitely a David v Goliath. The surface of the military road was not so good here and there was a constant path developing on the grassy bank next to the track. I must admit my feet sought out the easier way, and I was guilty of following the side paths. But after so much mileage it is not so easy sticking to the harder, stonier surfaces.

Looking back across the loch to the Grampian hills

Clear skies and warming sunshine – but not for long

A last look back at Beinn Dorain and his fat chums

One of the many bridges upgraded in the late 1880’s

As the morning wore on there was a heat haze coming off the moorland, but further ahead I could see the cloud base dropping and knew I was in for some showers later on. As it turned out these were the only showers of the week and they weren’t heavy enough to wash the dust from my boots. There were lots of pink and white orchids by the route today, the moorland must suit their growing requirements. It was quiet and utter peace across the moor – talk to yourself land – and the mind wanders as you make your way across small bridges and side streams. The bog up here is a blanket bog, formed in areas of high rainfall and humidity. I passed by a couple of Lochans, with their boggy surrounds, and then reached Ba Bridge – a lovely location and even though the rain started here, it was a great spot to spend some time contemplating and listening to the babbling waters pass by. From here I could see a plethora of small streams and rivulets running down to the flatter areas of the moor, where it would be well and truly boggy. No doubt laden with huge swarms of midges in the summer months.

A small unnamed Lochan as I crossed the Black Mount

Gradually gaining ground towards the watershed

Ba Bridge – stop and empty your head here

The military road continued uphill until I reached a small cairn marking the col, and the scenery opened up to the north showing a whole new landscape of hills and valleys to come, and the very wet Rannoch moor with it’s many lochans and lochs. The path was all downhill now to the Kingshouse hotel. The view was now dominated by the rocky massive that is Buachaille Etive Mor, and even in the light rain it looks splendid. There were some areas of moraine on the lower slopes of Meall Beag, and behind me there was a strong outcrop mark on the Grampian hills – Beinn Dorain and Beinn Odhar. I looked on my geology maps when I got home and this would be a Limestone band – well hard by the looks of it!

Here comes the rain over the Black Mount

The military road ploughs on across the moors

Over the top, the views open up to the east over the boggy Rannoch Moor

Dropping down towards Kingshouse, the Mamores in the distance

Kingshouse comes into view

The route gently marches down past the ski lift and an old cottage, cuts across the A82 road and ends at the Kingshouse hotel – the only establishment here, unless you catch a lift or a taxi up to Glencoe. The end of a big day with big views, tired but very happy, and feeling stronger as the walk goes on. In the evening the bar was full of lady members of a historic ladies walking club preparing to celebrate a 60 years anniversary – quite a few of them looked a bit worse for wear! Later I found out why there were always deer around the hotel – the cook feeds them!!

The old Blackrock Cottage, and the massive bulk of Buachaille Etive Mor

West Highland Way - Day 4

2009-05-18T22:59:00.000-07:00

Day Four: 15th May 2008.
Weather: Sunny spells, clouding over at the end of the day
Beinglas to Tyndrum: 12 miles (12.9 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 27295
Acc Steps: 141185

The day started off from Beinglas behind the main complex, and the way continued on the military road, up a gentle incline in a northerly direction. A nice warm up for the leg muscles after yesterday’s strenuous ups and downs. I still had some high fibre bars with me and was accompanied by the usual ‘I’ll name that tune in one – I’ve started so I’ll finish’ sound effects. But the path was empty as I set off later in the day than most of the people I had met over the last few days, or maybe they had heard me coming! The wooden ‘wigwams’ at Beinglas looked more like bee hives, and would be roasting hot in the summer. But I think I’d prefer that to the S*#£hole that is the Drovers Inn – see the accommodation review!! Needless to say I’m glad I didn’t stay there, or even have a drink there – a walk inside the place was enough to confirm all I had heard. But each to their own, and I dare say some readers will have a directly opposite viewpoint.

The way ascends gently out of Beinglas

Looking back before turning the corner into Glen Falloch

The path ambled along to the north beside the River Falloch, with the road gradually coming closer to the path. The noise wasn’t too intrusive as most of the traffic travels at a fair old lick down the A road. Once the path had flattened out I came across a couple of puddles on the track that were full of tadpoles. I only hoped it rained before the puddles became too small to support the growing population. After a couple of miles, and a couple of footbridges over sidestreams, I passed by the falls of Falloch. The rush of water took away any road noise and provided an interesting diversion for a few minutes, the falls being full of features to look at such as large potholes – formed by water eroding around a boulder which gradually washes away, leaving a big hole.

The Falls of Falloch

The way continued to the North West now, still close to the river but climbing gradually. The path was a joy to walk on compared to yesterday and the views behind were good looking back to the hills beyond Inverarnan. As I travelled along the views up Glen Falloch opened up, but the road and rail track converged on the path, and a long line of electricity pylons intruded upon the peaceful scene. After about 4 miles I crossed under the railway by means of a sheep creep – OK if you’re about 3ft tall but a little awkward to avoid scraping your pack along the roof. The higher peaks dominated the walk along Gen Falloch, and included Sron Ghabh, Stob Glas, An Caisteal, Stob Garbh and Big Ben More.

Ben More in the distance - probably

Looking back to Troisgeach

Proper Falls of Falloch, with lots of potholes

Along Glenn Falloch, with Meall Glas in the distance

The way dropping down to the railway sheep creep

Easy walking with majestic scenery along Glenn Falloch

The creepy sheep creep

The way climbs up to near the halfway point away from the railway

A last look back along Glenn Falloch to where I started the day

Looking up to Cruach Ardrain to the south west of the way

What a site for a picnic table at the halfway point near Crianlarich

I took time to absorb the scenery and as usual took too many pictures. All that happens then is I take so much longer to choose which ones to use. I was going to set myself a limit of 20 pictures per day but I’ve failed again! The views back along the Glen matched the views before me. As the path climbed out of Glen Falloch I approached the halfway mark near Crianlarich and found a perfectly sited picnic bench, with great views of Ben More, Loch Lubhair, and the River Fillan. After a little rest the path went onwards for a couple of miles through plantation forestry – not my favourite walk – although there were occasional glimpses of the hills to come. I finally made my way back downhill into the valley and passed under the railway viaduct and crossed the main road once more.

Looking along Strathfillan with Beinn Chaorach in view

Occasional glimpses of the hills to come

The River Fillan looking back to Ben More

The view the other way towards Tyndrum

The wide grazed river flood plain

The whole aspect of the walk changes once I crossed the River Fillan, it becomes very peaceful, easy going with great views back to Ben More. The lambing season was still underway, and there was a whole army of sheep and their offspring lined up along a fence in the lee of a hedgerow. Here next to the river the Scottish Agricultural College manages the land, and by the look of the landscape they do it very well. As I rambled along to Strathfillan there was a sign encouraging me to carry on, with the promise of an ice cream to come. I passed by the remains of the old Augustinian Priory dating back to the 13th Century, and the old graveyard that dated back to the 8th Century. Some of the headstones were at a jaunty angle and why not – what a great place to rest for eternity.

Beautiful scenery – Cruach Ardrain

The old graveyard – moraines on the hill slopes above

Towards Tyndrum – Ben Lui with some icing on his head

There were more wigwams (beehives) basking in the afternoon sun at Auchtertyre, and there was a shop to buy a nice cold drink, a very welcome sight. I was nearly at the end of day 4 and had thoroughly enjoyed it. There was a pleasant stroll back across the road and the way followed the river up to Tyndrum, with bigger hills ahead of me such as Beinn Dorain. It had a covering of snow in places, which made me wonder how much Ben Nevis would have on it. I finally walked into Tyndrum and decided to call it a day. I summoned my chauffeuse and we had a pint sitting outside the Tyndrum Lodge Hotel. I had pondered walking another 3 miles on to Auch and having a lift from there to shorten day 5, but then thought I would be better off doing another ‘Ben Lomond’ and getting up early to split the day and the mileage. So it was a short drive up to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, where we had a good meal followed by an evening stroll up to the station and watched the bats twirling around eating as many of the little bas£*@^d midges as possible – Ha Ha !!

More falls just before Tyndrum

It looks autumnal, but its not

Lovely contrasting colours below Ben Lui

The site of the old lead works – nothing will grow on this

A nice riverside walk to end the day at Tyndrum

West Highland Way - Day 3

2009-05-18T22:58:00.000-07:00

The West Highland Way 2008

Day Three: 14th May 2008.
Weather: Overcast & dull in the morning, sunshine all afternoon
Rowardennan to Beinglas: 14 miles (18.8 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 39749
Acc Steps: 113890

Bloody hell – excuse me for swearing but nobody told me it was going to be such a grind along the loch shoreline. It was only on the drive back down from Fort William that I could appreciate the steepness of the slopes. No wonder the way is up and down, and twisting around. Before I set off from home I packed some snacks for the walk, and included some high fibre bars. I thought this would be a healthy start to the week for me, but it turned into a windy day! I reckon if I had a trumpet with me I could have played Beethoven’s 5th symphony in E flat(ulence) major. So always check if anyone is walking behind you! The day started easily enough, passing by some seabirds sitting three in a row by the loch, ominously like Hitchcocks birds.

The ferry jetty at Rowardennan

A dull day beckoned with overcast skies, and when I found the hotel key in my pocket after ¾ of a mile, I was not best pleased. I pondered posting the key back, but decided to walk back as the path was easy. I regretted that at the end of the day as that extra 1 ½ miles nearly broke the camels back. The forestry track was easy walking for the first couple of miles, then I had a choice to stay on the forestry track or drop down to the shoreline. Unfortunately I chose to go down by the shoreline, and although it was picturesque in places, it was also very wearing.

Hmmmm left or right?

Down to the loch shore – my mistake of the day

There are a lot of bat boxes nailed up to the trees by the loch, and if you go out by the hotels or B&B at twilight you will see them darting around, hopefully eating as many midges as possible. The way twists and turns, you have to scramble over tree roots and boulders, and negotiate fallen trees across the path, so progress was fairly slow today. But despite the problems there were many small bays and rock promontories that provided such lovely spots to sit and ponder the day away.

Synchronised fishing by three men in a boat

Mile after mile of this was not comfortable

..and neither was this..

Looking across still waters to Tarbet

Since most of the day by the shore was spent in woodland it was a little difficult to gauge how far along the route I was, and it wasn’t until I reached Inversnaid and the falls that I realised how far I had to go and I was feeling rather tired at that point. There are lots of small streams to pass by or over on this section, some forded by boulders and others crossed by wooden bridges. Most of them were running fairly dry due to the fine weather in early May.

There was a lot of beauty around even though the route was tough

Ahhhh that’s better, strolling through the woods

A fine lunch break – across the loch to Tarbet and beyond

After about 4 miles and just before a small headland, I took the path up into some plantation woodland and moved away from the loch path to gain some height. Although the views were obscured by the trees it was nice to walk in a straight line for a change. I passed by a deserted hamlet marked by tumbled down walls, and then the woodland thinned and I began to get views across to Tarbet on the far shore of the loch and back towards Rowardennan.

Bluebells everywhere

Across the loch to the Hydro scheme at Inveruglas

But the relief of an easy path was short lived and I once more dropped back and up and down to the loch shore. I had brief intervals of clarity when I could gaze across at the hills beyond, with the Hydro Electric scheme prominent on the hillside. But I had to concentrate on my footing as it would have been so easy to turn an ankle and spoil the rest of the walk. I was accompanied by the usual call of the cuckoo, gently mocking me as I worked my way along, with percussion played by the woodpeckers – heard but not seen.

The falls at Inversnaid – a bit of a dribble today

The Cobbler and his mates

A beautiful setting – Ben Lomond in the distance

Eventually I reached the falls at Inversnaid, but due to the lack of recent rainfall they weren’t too spectacular. But I could scramble over the boulders to try and get a decent picture. The hotel provides a point for topping up the fluids and taking lunch if you fancy it. The going becomes easier for a short spell, but the next 3 or so miles were an unrelenting slog up and over boulders, tree roots, and the occasionally boggy patch. I couldn’t begin to imagine how it must be after rainfall and when the midges are in full spate. Rob Roy’s cave comes into view, after a scramble over some very large boulders, and someone has kindly painted a big white ‘CAVE’ sign on one of them. I’d have called it Rob Roy’s Crevice – but that doesn’t have the same romantic notion as cave. It is little more than a squeeze, and it can’t have been very comfortable.

Can you guess where it is? No wonder they found him..

Find your way over this lot

Working towards the end of the loch, still a long way to go

I met some hairy mountain goats later on the way. So with the goats, midges and boulders, it wouldn’t have been the best buy-to-let location! There are some good stretches where the views open up and I could stride out for a while, and eventually the way became easier. The walk along sparsely wooded slopes was pleasant, with the usual covering of bluebells. I walked up another Hockney style wood and came out onto higher ground with the landscape gradually changing as I reached the end of the loch. The abandoned buildings at Doune provide a sort of bunkhouse if you need it, and shortly after I passed the ferry point for Ardlui. I was very tempted to haul up the flag and call it across. The loch at this point is a lot narrower and I noticed that the road and train noise was a bit more intrusive. The views ahead now were of Ben Lui and Ben Oss away in the distance, providing a quick taster of the more spectacular views to come. There were good views back along the loch, with the feeling that the walking must be more comfortable from now on. It was a challenge met though. I made headway up the valley to reach Glen Falloch, passing by some marshy areas with the sweet smell of gorse, then dropped gently down to Beinglas. I flopped onto a picnic bench and made short work of a pint…aaaagggggghhhhhhhhhh. A good day, but tough going.

At last – goodbye loch shore – look how steep it was

Some grass – good for our soles

More Hockney woodland

The abandoned croft at Doune

Just past the ferry crossing for Ardlui

Looking back at the route today – I raised two fingers but not in a salute!

Almost at Beinglas – the pointy peak of Ben Oss ahead

West Highland Way - Day 2 Ben Lomond

2009-05-18T22:57:00.000-07:00

Day Two: 13th May 2008.
Weather: Early morning mist, giving way to sunshine above the clouds
Rowardennan to Ben Lomond: 7 ½ miles (7.2 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 15180
Acc Steps: 43384

I woke up at just after 5am, peeked out of the window and thought why not. I remembered to put my gloves in my pack at the last minute and crept out of the hotel at around 5:30. The early morning light was adding a gentle glow to the valley across the Loch, but looking up there was low cloud hanging around the flank of Ben Lomond. The summit was clear and looking very far away.

Clear cool air down at the loch

The summit is clear but the low cloud was developing

After consulting my guide book, I set off behind the hotel and walked up a path that didn’t go anywhere. So if you want this route, turn left out of the hotel and then right at the information centre. You can’t really go wrong, although the waiter at the hotel managed to get thoroughly lost. There is a wide forest track that gently ascends at first, before becoming steeper. The guide books show a large forested area, but thankfully the Scottish Forestry Commission has been clearing them away and improving the views. Unfortunately when plantation trees are cleared the remaining landscape can be left a real mess. But that didn’t take the pleasure away from the walk.

The initial steeper part through the cleared plantation trees

The lower peak of Ptarmigan with some fluff on it

The gentle ascent soon becomes a steeper climb and the body gently warms to the task. The path is well marked and climbs higher through the cleared plantation woods. It varies between a sandy path, to gravel, to bare rock and laid steps. There are some rocky outcrops to walk over but all are fairly gentle in nature. The hardest part of this walk was the early steep climb up, it seems never ending. I heard a Cuckoo calling from the valley cutting down the flank of Ben Lomond – very apt for so early in the morning as there wasn’t anybody else around, but there were a few vehicles passing the other side of the Loch.

Looking over to Tarbet on the far shore

Looking back down Loch Lomond to the islands

My only company on the way up was the birds – a couple of Partridges, a few highland cattle – the hornless variety and the usual sheep. After about ¾ mile there is a short easy gradient that will give you a breather, it gave me a view of the mist & low cloud persisting over the flank of the hill. This leads to a gate on the Scottish National Trust land of Ben Lomond. The walk begins to get steeper again, and the path winds itself up in a series of steps on the worst of the slope – every little helps. After 1hr I reached another gate marking a fence line and was ever closer to the low cloud and hoping that the gradient would ease off sooner rather than later. Eventually at around 570m the ground eases off and I could now stride out and make good progress. I had to don overtrousers and jacket as there was a chill wind blowing, and I was glad of my winter wear.

The gradient eases, but so does the view!

The summit appears through the mist and so does a grin

Later in the day I would have been sweating buckets up here, but at 6:30 it wasn’t too warm. I thought there was a patch of snow towards the summit but it turned out to be a quartzite band. The path was worn through to bedrock in places and it appeared to me to be made up of Phyllite which is slightly more metamorphosed than Slate – it is reminiscent of a rumpled blanket, and shinier than Slate. With the mist persisting, there wasn’t much to distract me, so I made good time towards the summit. There are a number of false summits before you eventually get up towards the top. Sure enough the cloud cleared and a big grin appeared from nowhere.

Above the cloud looking towards The Trossachs

The hills beyond Loch Katrine

A very fetching quiff – Rowardennan far below

Ardlui down at the lochside, Ben Oss amongst others hills

As I got higher the cloud got lower, and the adjacent hills came into view. The last climb up towards the summit was a steeply zigzagging path, then turned left under some rocks for an easy walk to the summit trig point. Once on the top the views above the cloud were great. It was very atmospheric with the many hilltops peaking above the clouds. The Arrocher Alps showing majestically. All that was left was for me to do a little jig and shout yeeehaaaa. What a great feeling and worth all the sweat and toil. It took me 2hrs 15mins to get to the top – probably due to the mist stopping me taking pictures all the time. So after 15mins on the summit I made my way back to the hotel in 1hr 25mins (hard on the knees) and walked into the dining room in time for a rather large feed. On the way down I surprised a fellow walker who was having his breakfast before the final walk to the top. He said “blimey och aye, ye must have been up early”. If I’d had a £ for everyone who said that to me on the way down, I would be £7 better off! Why is it that when you’re in Scotland you start talking to yourself in a pretend Scottish accent? Start to finish was 4hrs – amazing for me – obviously I wasn’t awake for half of it.

Finally the trig point comes into view

Looking NW from the summit. The cold has taken a bite out of the trig point

The view to the SW

Just one step back sir…..sir?...

The path on the way back – an easy walk over here

The long winding path down to breakfast

West Highland Way - Day 2

2009-05-18T22:56:00.000-07:00

Day Two: 13th May 2008.
Weather: Sunshine all afternoon ..Hooray again
Drymen to Rowardennan: 13 miles (14.6 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 30757
Acc Steps: 74141

After such a wonderful morning up high on Ben Lomond, the walk from Drymen would be a little bit of an anticlimax. I had a good rest and breakfast to stoke up on the carbs, and set off a couple of hours after finishing the Ben Lomond walk. I took the Magnus Magnusson attitude to where I should restart the walk – “I’ve started so I’ll finish..” – and rejoined the forest track at Garadh Ban woods. It was an easy trail to follow through the old plantation woods, on good forest track.

The wide forest ride

Conic Hill and the islands lined up along the faultline

The first call of the day was a Cuckoo, the same as everyday although I didn’t see one until Day 5. A nice cool breeze was blowing so conditions were perfect, with the sun shining brightly. There has been a lot of forest clearance here which opened up the views to Loch Lomond and beyond. After a couple of miles Conic Hill appears, a nice rounded hill & the only real ascent of day 2. The path approaching Conic Hill is closed off to dogs from Mid April to Mid May for the lambing season, but I think you can still walk over this way with care not to disturb the little dears – mint sauce anyone? There were surprisingly few people around today, and I didn’t pass many until later in the afternoon.

There were plenty of small streams to cross

The easy ascent up the flank of Conic Hill

The string of Islands across Loch Lomond marks the line of the highland fault, north of this fault the rocks become metamorphic and volcanic, and hence the scenery changes dramatically. The path moves gently around to the side of Conic Hill, and makes an easy ascent, and exposes the Old Red Sandstone Conglomerates that make up Conic Hill. Some big boulders mixed in with some smaller pebbles, a kind of pre-historic concrete.

Tougher than a glacier – The conglomerate of Conic Hill

The view from the west summit of Conic Hill

Looking back to Drumgoyne in the distance

The rocky path down to Balmaha

I didn’t go up to the top of Conic Hill, but made for the western summit for the best views that look directly over the Loch Lomond islands – all lined up in a row along the Highland fault. After a munch on a pink lady – an apple not a sunburned damsel – I carefully dropped down the front of the hill, although it would have been easier going back to the regular path. The way drops down steeply into Balmaha over an uneven stony path that reached a big car park at the visitor centre. This is the usual place where people venture about 100m from the car, then get back in and go home. It was a good place for refreshments and I had an ice cream tub served very reluctantly by the proprietor, and it was a good job I didn’t ask for anything she didn’t have!

Looking north towards Ben Lomond in the distance

One of many idyllic coves along the loch shore

From this point on the days walk changed to stretches of road and some woodland paths alongside the loch. For some strange reason this was the only place on the walk that I saw any amount of midges. Up through the woods by the loch there were a few swarms, but I had my spray on Skin-So-Soft which proved effective enough. The loch shore is obviously a very popular spot for picnics and campfires and there are some lovely spots along the way.

Looking over the loch towards Beinn Dubh

A lovely landscaped garden, ties in perfectly with the loch

The path runs alongside the road for some distance

There is a beautifully designed garden along the roadside, in front of a garage covered in slate. It does sit well and must be a delight to relax in during the warmer months. Enough to make me sit down and ponder the days ahead, it was such a joy not having to keep to any sort of timetable – it frees the mind to wander where it wants to go. There were lots of boats moored close to shore, no doubt used frequently during the summertime. The remainder of the walk to Rowardennan was spent mainly through woodland, a pleasant deciduous mix of Oaks (various species) and Silver Birch. The Birch trees must love the climate here as they are growing like weeds and will have to be thinned out eventually. In some places the woods were dominated by the Oak trees and this gave a delightful dappled shade, with the look of David Hockney’s ‘Bigger Trees Near Warter’ woodland painting that he donated to the Tate.

My ‘Bigger Trees Near Water’ – compare it to Hockneys

The view to the south from just past Sallochy

A quick taster for the paths of day three

As I moved towards Rowardennan the path became much more undulating with the views to the north opening up, revealing Ben Lomond that I had walked up this morning. I was relieved to reach the hotel in good time and feeling in pretty good shape considering the mileage that I had done today. A lesson learned for me is that if you have a lot of miles to cover in one day, try to fit in a stop along the way and take time to recuperate before slogging on to the finish. An evening stroll around the loch led us to the memorial to those that gave their lives for their country, and the land from the shore up to Ben Lomond is dedicated as the Ben Lomond National Memorial Park – a fitting tribute in a beautiful place.

Ben Lomond in the middle, Ben Vorlich to the left

Wandering along towards Rowardennan in the afternoon sun

Almost at the hotel

The Ben Lomond Memorial at the loch shore

Ben Lomond from the hotel grounds

West Highland Way - Day 1

2009-05-18T22:14:00.000-07:00

Day One: 12th May 2008.
Weather: Sunshine all day ..hooray…
Milngavie to Drymen: 13 miles (13.3 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 28204
Acc Steps: 28204

Are you sitting comfortably? Then I shall begin (my Mum will enjoy that). We drove up to Strathblane near Milngavie on the Sunday and had a relaxing stay at The Kirk House Inn, a real bargain for DBB. There were good views of the Campsie Fells as we got to Strathblane, and much anticipation from me as I read my trail guide for the day ahead. The start of the WHW is simple enough and is marked with a plinth in the town centre. I posed alongside it in the evening sun, with no shoppers around to give me any advice. There is an M&S alongside, which provided me with lunch - Wensleydale with Carrot chutney – very nice, but a bit sweaty in the sun!

The start of the walk – turn left after the plinth

For the first day I decided to walk a little further on from Drymen, as I had the ascent of Ben Lomond to consider on Day 2. The initial part of the walk from Milngavie is alongside a stream, past some industrial units and then out into Allander Park. There were plenty of dog walkers about, but I didn’t bump into the masses until I reached Mugdock Country park. I met two large Germans carrying massive backpacks. After greeting them I asked why they weren’t using the baggage service. One look surprised when I told him the price (about €50), but the other said ‘Ve are big strong men’ – I never saw them again. Maybe they fell over on their backs and like turtles couldn’t right themselves.

The way is clearly signposted – you shouldn’t go the wrong way

Wandering along good paths through mixed woodland in Allander Park

A common theme in May – lots of Bluebell Woods

The way takes you alongside Allander Water and in and out of woods – some natural, but lots of plantation forest. There were plenty of Bluebells carpeting the woodland floor, a lovely contrast to the fresh green of the leaves. The path was busy as I walked through Mugdock and no sooner had I passed one couple, another came into sight. This was the theme for the first six or seven miles, but the crowds thinned out at the pub at Drumgoyne – I wonder why? It would be a good spot for lunch if you didn’t have any sandwiches. The river valley looked marshy, and midges would be a real pest at the wrong time of year. I had coated up with ‘Skin So Soft’ and even though I didn’t run into any midges, I’m sure it would have kept them at bay. The stiles today were ‘squeeze’ stiles, made up of metal posts that pull aside, very ingenious and lasting a bit longer than wood would, I would think, wouldn’t you.

The path winds its way through Mugdock Wood alongside Allander Water

I passed a good few walkers ambling along Craigallian Loch, with the big house across the water looking down the loch. There is a row of wooden houses along the hillside resembling the Beverley Hillbillies, but all have great views. Once I had passed by Scroggy Hill (with excellent views up to Drumgoyne, the last of the Campsie fells) the landscape opened up to the north, with some distant views of the hills to come. The cloudy weather was moving north with me, which saved me getting fried on the first day.

Drumgoyne in the distance as the landscape opens up

Looking back along Craigallien Loch

I heard plenty of Cuckoo calls today, and everyday for the first 4 days. I had read in the paper that they were becoming scarcer, but obviously not here. Later in the day I passed a gander wallowing in a muddy patch, and not inclined to move for anyone. The most common site today was the chaffinches, and I managed a good picture, that you can see in the flora and fauna section.

Drumgoyne dominating the views for the day

Drumgoyach Hill is on the left, Drumgoyne on the right

The gorse smelt sweetly alongside the well worn path

Once I had passed by Drumgoyach, the landscape was mainly flat farmland, and the walk was now on the old dismantled railway bed. This was a bit boring in parts, but the reward comes later when the views of Loch Lomond arrive with the distant hills beckoning. I quickly passed by the distillery of Glengoyne, and it’s a good job I don’t like whisky, as I’d never have finished the route. You could take a diversion up to the distillery if you fancied a wee nip! The road becomes closer to the path but the noise is not too intrusive.

Glengoyne Distillery, just a wee one then?

The boring bit for me – the old railway track

Drumgoyne receding into the distance

The track runs on straight as an old railway track would!

I plugged in the I-Pod for the few miles of railway track, basically ‘tuned in and tuned out’ as the route is the same until Gartness. Here it followed the road around across the falls with their potholes in the eroded sandstone. I followed the road for 2 ½ miles which made a nice change from the old railway bed and there were more interesting sites to see. The views behind me improved, and I had a good look back to Campsie Fells and onwards from where I started. I finally reached the main road close to Drymen, crossed carefully and then followed for a short distance to cut north up a forestry track. Lots of felling here has opened out the views of Loch Lomond, and it was a nice end to the first day to see the hills coming closer. The weather was lovely and sunny and I followed the forestry track to the car park in Garadbhan Forest. The end of day one, satisfied that the boring bits were now behind me, and anticipation of the day to come. A gentle introduction to the WHW, with my feet in fairly good condition.

Looking ahead Conic Hill makes its first appearance on the horizon

The potholes scoured away in the Sandstone below Gartness Bridge

The Campsie Fells, with the prominent Drumgoyne

Enjoying the view back to the start of the day in far away Milngavie

The bigger hills appearing through the haze to the north

Nearly at the end of day one, and a last look back

Conic Hill coming closer, with anticipation for day two

The Loch finally appears – my companion for the next two days