West Highland Way Walks: West Highland Way

Day Four: 15th May 2008.
Weather: Sunny spells, clouding over at the end of the day
Beinglas to Tyndrum: 12 miles (12.9 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 27295
Acc Steps: 141185

The day started off from Beinglas behind the main complex, and the way continued on the military road, up a gentle incline in a northerly direction. A nice warm up for the leg muscles after yesterday’s strenuous ups and downs. I still had some high fibre bars with me and was accompanied by the usual ‘I’ll name that tune in one – I’ve started so I’ll finish’ sound effects. But the path was empty as I set off later in the day than most of the people I had met over the last few days, or maybe they had heard me coming! The wooden ‘wigwams’ at Beinglas looked more like bee hives, and would be roasting hot in the summer. But I think I’d prefer that to the S*#£hole that is the Drovers Inn – see the accommodation review!! Needless to say I’m glad I didn’t stay there, or even have a drink there – a walk inside the place was enough to confirm all I had heard. But each to their own, and I dare say some readers will have a directly opposite viewpoint.

The way ascends gently out of Beinglas

Looking back before turning the corner into Glen Falloch

The path ambled along to the north beside the River Falloch, with the road gradually coming closer to the path. The noise wasn’t too intrusive as most of the traffic travels at a fair old lick down the A road. Once the path had flattened out I came across a couple of puddles on the track that were full of tadpoles. I only hoped it rained before the puddles became too small to support the growing population. After a couple of miles, and a couple of footbridges over sidestreams, I passed by the falls of Falloch. The rush of water took away any road noise and provided an interesting diversion for a few minutes, the falls being full of features to look at such as large potholes – formed by water eroding around a boulder which gradually washes away, leaving a big hole.

The Falls of Falloch

The way continued to the North West now, still close to the river but climbing gradually. The path was a joy to walk on compared to yesterday and the views behind were good looking back to the hills beyond Inverarnan. As I travelled along the views up Glen Falloch opened up, but the road and rail track converged on the path, and a long line of electricity pylons intruded upon the peaceful scene. After about 4 miles I crossed under the railway by means of a sheep creep – OK if you’re about 3ft tall but a little awkward to avoid scraping your pack along the roof. The higher peaks dominated the walk along Gen Falloch, and included Sron Ghabh, Stob Glas, An Caisteal, Stob Garbh and Big Ben More.

Ben More in the distance - probably

Looking back to Troisgeach

Proper Falls of Falloch, with lots of potholes

Along Glenn Falloch, with Meall Glas in the distance

The way dropping down to the railway sheep creep

Easy walking with majestic scenery along Glenn Falloch

The creepy sheep creep

The way climbs up to near the halfway point away from the railway

A last look back along Glenn Falloch to where I started the day

Looking up to Cruach Ardrain to the south west of the way

What a site for a picnic table at the halfway point near Crianlarich

I took time to absorb the scenery and as usual took too many pictures. All that happens then is I take so much longer to choose which ones to use. I was going to set myself a limit of 20 pictures per day but I’ve failed again! The views back along the Glen matched the views before me. As the path climbed out of Glen Falloch I approached the halfway mark near Crianlarich and found a perfectly sited picnic bench, with great views of Ben More, Loch Lubhair, and the River Fillan. After a little rest the path went onwards for a couple of miles through plantation forestry – not my favourite walk – although there were occasional glimpses of the hills to come. I finally made my way back downhill into the valley and passed under the railway viaduct and crossed the main road once more.

Looking along Strathfillan with Beinn Chaorach in view

Occasional glimpses of the hills to come

The River Fillan looking back to Ben More

The view the other way towards Tyndrum

The wide grazed river flood plain

The whole aspect of the walk changes once I crossed the River Fillan, it becomes very peaceful, easy going with great views back to Ben More. The lambing season was still underway, and there was a whole army of sheep and their offspring lined up along a fence in the lee of a hedgerow. Here next to the river the Scottish Agricultural College manages the land, and by the look of the landscape they do it very well. As I rambled along to Strathfillan there was a sign encouraging me to carry on, with the promise of an ice cream to come. I passed by the remains of the old Augustinian Priory dating back to the 13th Century, and the old graveyard that dated back to the 8th Century. Some of the headstones were at a jaunty angle and why not – what a great place to rest for eternity.

Beautiful scenery – Cruach Ardrain

The old graveyard – moraines on the hill slopes above

Towards Tyndrum – Ben Lui with some icing on his head

There were more wigwams (beehives) basking in the afternoon sun at Auchtertyre, and there was a shop to buy a nice cold drink, a very welcome sight. I was nearly at the end of day 4 and had thoroughly enjoyed it. There was a pleasant stroll back across the road and the way followed the river up to Tyndrum, with bigger hills ahead of me such as Beinn Dorain. It had a covering of snow in places, which made me wonder how much Ben Nevis would have on it. I finally walked into Tyndrum and decided to call it a day. I summoned my chauffeuse and we had a pint sitting outside the Tyndrum Lodge Hotel. I had pondered walking another 3 miles on to Auch and having a lift from there to shorten day 5, but then thought I would be better off doing another ‘Ben Lomond’ and getting up early to split the day and the mileage. So it was a short drive up to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, where we had a good meal followed by an evening stroll up to the station and watched the bats twirling around eating as many of the little bas£*@^d midges as possible – Ha Ha !!