West Highland Way Walks: West Highland Way

Day Six: 17th May 2008.
Weather: Overcast all morning for the walk, then sunshine pm
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven: 9 miles (9.9 on Pedometer)
Map:
Total Steps: 21046
Acc Steps: 203996

The first thing I saw out of the window today was a big, fat, hairy cow – no not the landlady, some highland cattle scratching on a box. They obviously chased the deer away – the deer not the landlady. I couldn’t miss the giant butt of Buachaille Etive Mor, which was really the first big thing of the day.

Buachaille Etive Mor – welcome to Glencoe

There was low mist clinging to the hill tops, which meant disappointment to me as I wanted to traverse the Aonoch Eagach ridge, when I had walked up the Devil’s Staircase. I will have to come back to do that one as an individual walk. An easy gradient followed the contours of the hill on the north side of Glencoe, as the route took me around to the Devil’s Staircase. The road comes very close as the path turns up the hill, and the car parks were full with Munro baggers for the weekend. All looked happy, and why not walking never hurt anyone, unless you fall off the high bits etc. The view up Glencoe was tremendous despite the weather, and some good glacial features could be seen – hanging valleys above the U-shaped valley itself. I passed a man and his girlfriend early on, who was either very intoxicated last night or was dressed by his mum – he was wearing light blue hat, red and white jacket, red rucksack with bright yellow rain cover, khaki shorts over black and white striped tights and to complete the ensemble a pair of Chelsea boots! Take a close look at the picture; I thought his girlfriend may have tried to run off! He wouldn’t get lost dressed like that and he was easy to spot from a long way off.

Hmmm?

Glencoe

A lot of the side streams coming down off the hills are forded with boulder beds, some fancier than others on different sections of the walk, which vary from buttressed bridges, simple stone bridges, or a pile of stones. I didn’t spot much wildlife today apart from the lesser spotted sweet wrapper, which unfortunately is only too common on the WHW along with his cousin the discarded tissue – what is wrong with these people? The Devils Staircase was presumably named by the soldiers who used to lug equipment up the steep slope. It actually doesn’t live up to its reputation. Granted it is steep at first, but then turns along a series of zigzags which lessen the gradient and speed you to the top. I made sure to stop now and again to get a good retrospective of the views behind down Glencoe and its surrounds.

A perfect U-shaped valley – Lairig Gartain

Admiring the views from near the top of the Devil’s Staircase

The small cairn marks the col at the top of the Devil’s Staircase

Once at the top of the staircase the views to the north should have been spectacular, but unfortunately they were a bit limited, with all the big boys’ heads in the clouds. At this point I abandoned any idea of going up Aonoch Eagach, as the wind was cold and I didn’t feel properly equipped and I regretted for a moment not being better prepared. But I reminded myself that Big Ben was waiting for me on Monday, and that I was enjoying myself anyway. The route wound down the hillside with a few small ascents over a lumpy path – the military road not as well maintained over the hillside, which had more than a few outcrops of glacially smoothed rock.

Rough moorland all around

Looking up to Sron Gharbh

Kinlochleven comes into view – one of the wettest places in the UK

Looking along the valley to the Blackrock Reservoir

I think that’s a water metering building?

Kinlochleven came into view from high up the ridge, and as the Alcan water works are approached the path turns onto a well maintained track. The water pipes down into the old aluminium plant at Kinlochleven are impressive, and they would make a fantastic water slide should they ever become defunct! These discharge into the River Leven with a great rush, and the old works are now a fancy climbing centre. After crossing over the river, the walk into Kinlochleven is pleasant enough with the residents obviously taking pride in the appearance of their gardens. I was bombarded with signs on the route into Kinlochleven, all vying for my trade, both hotels and B&B’s. Just as I finished the day’s walk, the sun came out - but I didn’t care as I had the afternoon off and went up to Fort William, and then onto Glenfinnan for a look around. On the way back Big Ben Nevis was staring at me, a challenge for Monday, and I only hope the weather holds. Today’s leg was very short – the route not me, or I’d be walking around in circles – so if you’re up this way, prepare for something in the afternoon or you may get a little fidgety. There wasn’t much flora or fauna seen today either, or maybe I didn’t look closely enough? A bit of a frustrating day as the best views were hidden away.